A varsity jacket is not supposed to fit like a t-shirt, and it is not supposed to fit like an oversized hoodie either. It has a specific shape. Structured wool body. Set-in leather sleeves. A collar that sits close to the neck. A waistband that holds its line instead of riding up. When the fit is right, the jacket looks sharp standing still and moves naturally when you walk, reach, or throw an arm around a friend for a photo. When the fit is wrong, even the best construction and the cleanest chenille patch cannot save the silhouette.
Because every custom varsity jacket at True Varsity is made-to-order, sizing is not something you fix after the fact. It is something you get right before production starts. This guide walks through exactly how to measure yourself, how to read the fit differences between slim, regular, and relaxed cuts, and how to handle sizing for individual orders, youth sizing, hooded styles, and full team jacket orders.
Quick answer: To find your varsity jacket size, measure your chest, shoulder width, sleeve length, body length, and waist using a soft tape measure, or lay a jacket you already own flat and measure it the same way. Compare these numbers to the True Varsity size guide, then choose slim, regular, or relaxed fit based on how you plan to wear the jacket and what you will layer underneath.
Why Varsity Jacket Sizing Is Different from Regular Jacket Sizing
Most jackets are built from soft, stretchy fabric that forgives a slightly wrong size. A varsity jacket is built differently. The body is structured wool, which holds its shape rather than stretching to fit you. The sleeves are leather, set in at the shoulder seam rather than cut in one loose piece like a raglan hoodie sleeve. The collar, cuffs, and waistband use rib-knit trim, which sits snug by design.
This construction is exactly what gives a varsity jacket its classic look, the clean shoulder line, the structured chest, the way it sits close at the collar and cuffs while still leaving room to move. But it also means your usual size in a t-shirt, hoodie, or casual jacket is not a reliable guide. A size large hoodie and a size large varsity jacket can fit very differently on the same body, because the fabric behaves differently and the construction is different at the shoulder and sleeve.
This is why we always recommend working from actual body measurements rather than your go-to size label. It takes an extra two minutes with a measuring tape, and it is the single biggest factor in whether your letterman jacket ends up looking sharp or slightly off.
How to Measure Yourself for a Varsity Jacket
You do not need special equipment. A flexible measuring tape, a mirror, and a few minutes are enough. If possible, have someone else take the measurements for you, since it is difficult to keep a tape level and snug around your own chest and shoulders.
Chest Measurement
Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your chest, passing under your arms and across your shoulder blades. Keep the tape level all the way around, not angled higher in the back than the front. Hold it snug against your body but not pulled tight, and take the reading while breathing normally rather than after a deep breath. This number is usually the most important one for choosing your size.
Shoulder Width
Because varsity jackets use a set-in sleeve rather than a raglan cut, shoulder width matters more here than it does on a lot of casual jackets. Measure from the edge of one shoulder to the edge of the other, across your back. If the shoulder seam sits noticeably past the edge of your natural shoulder, the jacket will look too large through the top even if the chest feels fine.
Sleeve Length
With your arm relaxed at your side and slightly bent, measure from the center of the back of your neck, across your shoulder, and down to just past your wrist bone, near the base of your thumb. A properly sized sleeve ends around this point when your arm is relaxed, and still leaves enough room to bend your elbow comfortably without the leather pulling tight across the joint.
Body Length
Measure from the base of your neck down to where you want the jacket to end, typically at or just below the waistband. This helps confirm the jacket will sit at the right point on your torso rather than riding up when you raise your arms or sit down.
Waist
If you carry more size through your midsection than your chest, take one more measurement around your natural waistline, level and snug. This extra number helps confirm the rib-knit waistband will sit comfortably instead of feeling tight when the jacket is snapped closed.
Once you have these measurements, compare them against the True Varsity size guide. If any of your numbers fall between two listed sizes, keep reading, because the right call depends on how you want the jacket to fit.
An Alternative Method: Measuring a Jacket You Already Own
If measuring your own body feels awkward, or you already own a jacket whose fit you like, you can measure the garment instead. Lay it flat on a table and smooth out any wrinkles. Measure straight across the chest just below where the armpits sit, from the top of the shoulder seam straight down to the hem for body length, and from the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff for sleeve length. This gives you finished garment measurements rather than body measurements, so compare them to the size guide with that difference in mind, since a garment chest measurement will naturally run a little larger than your bare body chest measurement to allow room for movement and layering.
Slim, Regular, or Relaxed: Choosing Your Fit
Once you know your measurements, the next decision is fit preference. This is where personal style comes into the sizing conversation, not just body measurements.
Slim fit sits closer to the body through the chest and shoulders, with less extra room in the sleeves. It gives a more tailored, put-together look and works well if you plan to wear the jacket on its own without heavy layers underneath. This is a common choice for a clean, classic varsity jacket look.
Regular fit is the traditional varsity silhouette. It has enough room to move comfortably, layer a t-shirt or light sweater underneath, and still keeps the structured shoulder line that defines the style. If you are ordering your first varsity jacket and are not sure which direction to go, regular fit is the safest starting point.
Relaxed fit adds extra room through the chest and arms, giving a looser, more streetwear-driven silhouette. This is a popular choice for buyers who want to wear a hoodie underneath during colder months, or who prefer the boxier look that has become common in modern streetwear styling.
Our team is available through the Contact Page to help you decide between these three options based on your specific measurements and how you plan to wear the jacket.
When Your Chest and Sleeve Measurements Point to Different Sizes
It is common for chest measurement to match one size while sleeve length matches another, especially if you have longer or shorter arms relative to your build. When this happens, think about which fit issue is easier to live with. Sleeve length is the harder one to compromise on, since a sleeve that stops short of your wrist is noticeable every time you reach for something, while a slightly roomier chest is barely visible under a snap-front jacket. For that reason, if your arms run long, we generally recommend sizing for the sleeve and accepting a touch more room through the body. If your arms run short, staying with your chest size and allowing a small amount of extra length at the cuff usually looks more balanced than sizing down and pulling at the shoulders.
Sizing for Broader or Taller Frames
For a broader frame, match your chest and waist measurements first, since these determine whether the snap closure sits comfortably without pulling. Then check that sleeve and body length are proportional to your height, not just your chest. For a taller frame, sleeve length and body length carry equal weight to chest width. A jacket that fits cleanly through the chest but runs short in the sleeves or body will still look undersized once you put it on. If your measurements sit between two listed sizes on the size guide, reach out to our team with your full set of numbers rather than chest alone, since body length and sleeve length often tip the decision one way or the other.
Sizing for Hooded Varsity Jackets
A hooded varsity jacket follows the same chest, shoulder, and sleeve logic as a classic varsity jacket, with one extra thing to plan for. The attached hood adds a small amount of bulk around the neck and upper back, so if you plan to wear the hood up over a cap or with the drawstring cinched, a regular or relaxed fit will sit more comfortably than a slim fit. If you mainly wear the hood down as a style detail rather than functionally, your usual fit preference still applies. Chest and sleeve measurements matter just as much on a hooded style, since the hood does not change how the shoulders or sleeves are constructed.
Sizing Kids and Youth Varsity Jackets
Youth sizing follows the same measuring method as adult sizing, chest, shoulder, sleeve, and body length, but two things matter more for growing kids. First, take fresh measurements close to the time of ordering rather than relying on last season's size, since kids can grow noticeably in a few months. Second, if you are ordering ahead of a school year or sports season and want the jacket to last longer, a regular fit with a small amount of extra room in the sleeves is usually more practical than a slim fit that a child may outgrow by winter. For team and class orders that include younger members, the same group measuring approach later in this guide applies, just with more frequent size checks.
How Fit Affects Styling and Layering
Fit is not only about comfort, it also changes how the jacket reads visually and what you can wear underneath it. A slim fit gives the cleanest line for wearing the jacket on its own over a t-shirt, which is the classic look for game day, senior photos, or everyday streetwear. A regular fit gives enough room for a light hoodie or crewneck without looking bulky, which is the most versatile option across seasons. A relaxed fit is built for cold-weather layering, a hoodie or sweater underneath without the chest or shoulders pulling, and it also suits the boxier, oversized silhouette that has become common in modern streetwear styling.
If you switch between wearing the jacket alone in warmer months and layering it over a hoodie in colder months, think about which use case matters more before you order, since the fit that looks best empty on a hanger is not always the fit that feels best layered.
Common Sizing Mistakes to Avoid
Sizing from memory instead of measuring. It is tempting to order the same size you always buy in other brands, but jacket construction varies enough between brands that this often leads to a fit that feels slightly off in the shoulders or sleeves.
Ignoring shoulder width. Chest measurement gets most of the attention, but shoulder width has a bigger impact on how a set-in sleeve varsity jacket sits and moves. A jacket that fits through the chest but is too wide at the shoulder will still look oversized.
Forgetting what you will wear underneath. If you plan to layer a hoodie or heavy sweater under your jacket regularly, size up slightly or choose a relaxed fit. If you plan to wear it mostly on its own, a slim or regular fit will look cleaner.
Guessing when between sizes. If your measurements fall between two sizes, do not just default to sizing down for a tighter look or sizing up for comfort without thinking it through. Consider your fit preference first, then let that guide the decision, or reach out to our team for guidance.
Sizing for Team and Bulk Orders
Individual orders are one thing, but sizing gets more complex once you are ordering for a full roster, club, or graduating class. Body types vary across any group, and assuming one size fits most members is one of the most common reasons custom team jackets end up inconsistent once they arrive.
For any group order, we recommend collecting individual chest, shoulder, and sleeve measurements from each person rather than relying on generic small, medium, and large labels. This is especially important for teams with a wide age or size range, such as programs that include both younger and older members. True Varsity supports sizing coordination for bulk and team orders, helping keep the fit and finishing consistent across the whole group, the same way patch placement and color matching stay consistent.
A short measuring session for the group goes a long way toward avoiding last-minute changes once production is underway:
- Assign one person, such as a coach, captain, or coordinator, to take everyone's measurements the same way, using the same steps every time.
- Measure each person in light layers rather than a thick hoodie or coat, so the numbers reflect actual body size.
- Record chest, shoulder, sleeve, and body length next to each name on a single list rather than separate notes.
- Decide as a group whether you want a closer regular fit or a roomier relaxed fit before individual sizes are finalized, so the whole order stays consistent.
- For younger athletes or students who may still be growing, consider leaving a small amount of extra room, particularly in the sleeves.
Submitting a completed measurement list early in the ordering process helps avoid delays once production begins, since made-to-order jackets are built after your order and sizing details are confirmed.
Getting Fit Support Before You Order
Sizing does not have to be a guessing game. Between the size guide, the option to submit custom measurements, and direct support from our team, you have more than one way to confirm your fit before committing to a made-to-order jacket. If you are ordering a classic wool body varsity jacket, a hooded style for extra layering, or coordinating sizes across an entire team, taking a few extra minutes with a measuring tape now saves you from a fit issue later.
Built for the Culture. Made for You.
How do I know what size varsity jacket to order?
Start with your chest, shoulder, and sleeve measurements rather than guessing from your usual t-shirt size. Varsity jackets have a structured wool body and set-in leather sleeves, so they fit differently than a hoodie or a regular jacket. True Varsity's size guide and measurement support help you match your numbers to the right size before production begins.
Should a varsity jacket fit tight or loose?
A varsity jacket should sit close through the shoulders and chest without pulling across the buttons, and the body should reach the waistband without riding up when you raise your arms. It is not meant to be as fitted as a bomber jacket or as loose as an oversized hoodie. Most buyers find a regular fit gives this classic silhouette.
What is the difference between slim, regular, and relaxed fit?
Slim fit sits closer to the body with less room through the chest and shoulders, giving a more tailored look. Regular fit is the traditional varsity silhouette with comfortable movement and standard shoulder structure. Relaxed fit adds extra room through the chest and arms for a looser, more streetwear-driven feel.
How do I measure my chest for a varsity jacket?
Wrap a soft measuring tape around the fullest part of your chest, under your arms and across your shoulder blades, keeping the tape level and snug but not tight. Take the measurement while breathing normally, not after a deep breath. Compare this number against the size guide rather than your usual clothing size label.
Do varsity jackets run large or small?
Varsity jackets can feel different from everyday jackets because of the structured wool body and set-in sleeves, so relying on your normal size label can be misleading. Checking actual body measurements against the size guide is the most reliable way to choose correctly. If your measurements fall between two sizes, sizing up usually preserves the classic varsity shape better than sizing down.
Can I provide custom measurements instead of a standard size?
Yes. True Varsity accepts custom measurements for buyers who want a more personal fit, alongside standard sizing. This is especially useful for team orders where body types vary, or for anyone who has struggled to find their fit in standard jacket sizing. Our team reviews custom measurements before production starts.
How should the sleeves fit on a varsity jacket?
Sleeves should end near the base of your thumb with your arms relaxed at your sides, leaving enough room to bend your elbows without the leather pulling tight. Sleeves that are too long will bunch at the wrist, and sleeves that are too short will expose your wrist when you move. Because varsity sleeves are set in rather than raglan-cut, shoulder width affects sleeve fit as much as sleeve length does.
What should I do if my measurements fall between two sizes?
When you are between two sizes, consider how you plan to wear the jacket. If you want a closer, slim fit, size down. If you want more room for a hoodie or sweater underneath, or you prefer a relaxed streetwear look, size up. Our team is also available to help you decide based on your specific measurements.
Is sizing different for team and bulk orders?
Group orders bring more size variation, so we recommend collecting individual measurements from every team member rather than assuming one size fits most. True Varsity supports bulk and team orders with sizing coordination to help keep the fit consistent across the group. Sharing measurements early avoids delays once production starts.
What happens if the size does not fit once it arrives?
Because every jacket is made-to-order, checking measurements carefully before ordering is the best way to avoid a fit issue. If your jacket arrives with a manufacturing problem or an incorrect size compared to what you ordered, contact our team within 7 days of delivery with photos so we can review it. Change-of-mind returns are not accepted on made-to-order jackets, which is why we recommend confirming fit preferences before production begins.
Can I measure a jacket I already own instead of measuring my body?
Yes, and it is often the easiest method if you already have a varsity jacket, bomber jacket, or hoodie whose fit you like. Lay it flat on a table, then measure straight across the chest just below the armpits, from the top of the shoulder seam down to the hem, and from the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff. Compare these garment measurements to the True Varsity size guide alongside your body measurements to confirm the closest match.
What if my chest measurement matches one size but my sleeves match another?
This happens most often with longer or shorter arm lengths relative to chest size. If your arms are longer, we generally recommend sizing for the sleeve length and accepting slightly more room through the body, since sleeve length is harder to adjust after the fact. If your arms are shorter, staying with your chest size and allowing a small amount of extra length at the cuff usually looks more balanced than sizing down.
How should a varsity jacket fit for a bigger or taller frame?
For broader frames, match your chest and waist measurements first, then check that body length and sleeve length are proportional to your height. For taller frames, sleeve length and body length matter as much as chest width, since a jacket that fits the chest but runs short in the body or sleeves will look undersized. If your measurements sit between our listed sizes, our team can advise based on your full set of numbers rather than chest alone.
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